First British Tourists Allowed Back into North Korea: What They Saw

 First British Tourists Allowed Back into North Korea: What They Saw

For the first time in five years, British tourists have been allowed into North Korea, marking a significant moment in the country’s tourism history. With strict guidelines in place and limited access, the recent tour gave travelers a rare glimpse into one of the world’s most secretive and repressive nations.

In a country where almost every aspect of life is tightly controlled, Western visitors must adhere to a set of rigid rules: no insulting the leaders, no criticizing the ideology, and no judgment. A group of travelers, including YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy from the UK, crossed the border from China into the remote region of Rason for a four-night trip, the first of its kind in years. They were guided by local officials who adhered strictly to a pre-approved schedule designed to showcase North Korea in a carefully controlled light.

The Tour Experience: Tight Control

Tourists were escorted at all times by local guides. From the moment they crossed into Rason, the guides ensured that every step of the itinerary was meticulously planned. Visits to a local school, a beer factory, and even a fully stocked pharmacy were included—each stop seeming designed to present a controlled, sanitized image of life in North Korea.

Mike O'Kennedy, a 28-year-old British YouTuber, remarked on the extreme level of surveillance and control. "A couple of times I even had to let them know when I wanted to use the bathroom," Mike said, highlighting the regimented nature of the trip. His observation of the local environment was equally unsettling. "Everyone was working, it didn't feel like anyone was just hanging out. That was kind of bleak to see," he shared.

One of the more shocking moments of the trip occurred at a school, where children performed a synchronized dance to animations of ballistic missiles hitting their targets. The children, dressed in red neckties, sang and danced as explosions flashed on the screen behind them.

The Real North Korea?

Despite the overwhelming control, glimpses of real life managed to break through. Some tourists reported seeing a bustling market with luxury goods like fake Louis Vuitton bags and Japanese washing machines—items likely imported from China. These scenes, not intended for tourist eyes, were an unexpected but revealing look into North Korea’s consumer culture.

Joe Smith, a seasoned North Korea traveler, commented that this visit felt like the most “messy and real” experience he'd had in the country. However, he also noted that tourism had become even more restricted compared to his previous visits. "There were fewer opportunities to interact with locals or roam the streets," he said, pointing out the dilapidated state of the buildings in Rason. "The roads are awful, the pavements are wobbly, and the buildings are weirdly constructed."

A Mixed and Tense Atmosphere

The group was kept far from Pyongyang, North Korea’s capital, with the authorities opting to restrict tourists to Rason, a special economic zone known for its relative openness to Chinese businesspeople. Even here, the atmosphere was tense, with ongoing Covid-related restrictions in place. Luggage was disinfected, temperatures were taken, and face masks were still in use by a significant portion of the population.

"Places were dimly lit, and there was no heating, except in our hotel rooms," Greg Vaczi, one of the tour leaders, said, echoing concerns about the impact of Covid and the state of the country’s infrastructure.

The Tourism Debate

Tourism to North Korea has long been a controversial issue, with critics arguing that such trips largely benefit the regime and its military rather than the population. "The vast majority of the population doesn't know these tourists exist," said Joanna Hosaniak from the Citizens Alliance for North Korean Human Rights. "Their money goes to the state and ultimately towards its military."

For those on the tour, the experience was one of unease mixed with fascination. Mike O'Kennedy reflected on a conversation he had with a young North Korean girl during the school visit, who expressed her hope to one day visit the UK. "I didn't have the heart to tell her that her chances were very, very slim," Mike admitted.

Despite the discomfort and restrictions, some believe that these rare interactions may have a deeper impact. Greg Vaczi of Koryo Tours believes that the opportunity for North Koreans to engage with foreigners, however controlled, could provide them with a broader view of the outside world—a small but crucial step in a country that remains largely isolated.

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The resumption of tourism in North Korea may be just the beginning of a new phase in its relationship with the outside world. But, for now, it remains a tightly controlled, surreal experience where the lines between spectacle and reality are often blurred.